A lot of our racing customers like to try new and different carburetors for their karts. It’s not possible to know if a carburetor developed for one application can also be used for another application–until you try it! This section of our website is geared to tinkerers who like to experiment for themselves to see if they can come up with something better. The best way to use this section is to figure out what the venturi and throttle bore of your existing carburetor is and then to try other carburetors in +/- 1-2mm increments to see if it is better or worse. The bolt pattern is important, but most carburetors can be connected with adapters (some are available in the open market; others have to made). You can contact us if you’re trying something new. We might be able to give you guidance. Here are some good guidelines:
- Most HW’s (other than HW-12’s and 24’s) use the same bolt patter as an HL.
- When changing from an HL to an HW, you can usually downsize the venturi 2-6 mm. So if you have a 24mm HL, try an HW with a 20 venturi. That’s because the smaller venturi gives more bottom and acceleration but the HW is set up to give equal or better top end even with the smaller venturi, so overall you’ll get faster lap times. If you don’t care about the bottom, you can try the same size venturi +/- 2-4 mm.
Here are some good examples of successful experiments:
- Our HW-24A carburetor for the Formula Vee class was developed from the HW-12A. We worked with the tuner to bore our the HW-12A and make a few additional changes that make it a great carburetor.
- The HW’s developed for the KF class (HW-10A, 10B, 11A, 11B, 22A and 23A) work well on Leopard engines that race in open classes. You might need a manifold.
- The HW-10A and B are being successfully used in the KT100 classes.
Feel free to contact us if you’re looking to try something a little different. We’re here to help!
